SPOT CHECK: RIDDES
GRADE: INTERMEDIATE

Moving on from Dorénaz, a mere two hours after waking (and after much arguing with the men who during the night had quietly removed the entire road surface below where we had camped), we chugged along the valley floor with the ever–intimidating cold waters of the Rhône to our right, and made a beeline for our next destination, Riddes. We were now heading into the main valley of the Valais canton and into the heart of what we named ‘little Italy’. The climate of this area has to be experienced to be believed as it resembles something more Mediterranean than Alpine. The barrier of the high Valaisian and Bernese Alps channels clouds and humidity away, leaving a pleasant and dry climate. You can find leathery old men killing time on street corners, an abundance of fresh fruit and vegetables growing and local wine that is sold across the world.

Riddes’ gondola is one of multiple lifts and funiculars that operate in this perma-sun basin. These lifts serve communities, agriculture and sports folk alike and are a complex network that extends to innumerable side valleys. Ben and Corinne were waiting to show us the way and took no time in explaining that this was only one location of the dozens that they had ridden in a decade of exploring the nooks and crannies of this region. En–route to the meeting point, they told us, we had passed several notable riding spots, namely Crans Montana and Verbier but also a myriad of small, simple lift systems that are open all year round and take nothing more than a sense of adventure to discover and brave. They had ridden in so many towns, villages and hidden valleys that Riddes had been left aside for several years making it as much of an adventure for them as it was for us.

We bought our lift tickets and then waited in the summer–like sun (this was mid September) that seemed like it would be there for the foreseeable future. There are two uplifts per hour here, which roughly reflects the timetables of the majority of access lifts in Valais. From Riddes the cable car drops its contents into the curious Isérables, an ancient village dating back to the 13th century that positively teeters on the vertical mountainside at over 1,100 metres.

Exiting the lift bore us our first problem of the trip; no bikes allowed down the access trail that Ben and Corinne used to ride on a regular basis. Perhaps the attraction of dusty turns, mind–blowing views and the relaxing air to the place made it a victim of its own mountain bike success. Maybe there was nothing better to do than to erect several anti–bike signs. Whatever the reason, it didn’t seem of much importance as an elderly man, leant firmly against a wooden post and admiring the perfect view, as he most likely admires every day of the year, waved us through and advised that he wouldn’t tell anyone if we didn’t. He flashed a smile and turned his back on us. This was certainly Switzerland as I had never before known it.

Rolling at speed through the warm air was a pleasure that made me think of riding in Spain or Italy and the ensuing dusty trail confirmed that this was the Alps as I had never seen them. I probably shouldn’t be promoting mountain biking at Isérables, in fact I must highlight that it is entirely illegal, even if the old man does wave you through. On the other hand, I discovered the most perfect turns and impeccable straights I have ever seen, a faultless trail. Memorable it certainly was, a dream come true for me in fact, with the best corners I have ridden on a downhill bike. You can make your own decision about whether you want to visit, but bear in mind that this is probably the only trail in the entire area that is anti–bikes and I’m sure that with some searching there are plenty more like it with no issues. If you do visit and wish to risk the wrath of the Swiss rule system, as well as a prolonged back–in–time experience, stay at the ‘Auberge du Mont Gelé’ in Isérables and tell them the old man outside said bikes were cool.

Parking: Available around Riddes’ streets
Lift Cost: Around 5CHF per uplift
Opening Hours: 06:00 – 20:30
Opening Dates: Open all year
Lift Altitude: 482 – 1100 (metres)
Distance from Geneva: 147km’s
www.riddes.ch or www.isérables.ch

A HAPPY ENDING

From Riddes we travelled across the valley to an appointment in the swish resort of Crans Montana, probably the best known mountain biking in the area, yet another new one to me. Again I rode tracks and trails that I presumed only to exist in my bike–obsessive dreamland, an outstanding network of trails which now and again provided unbelievable panoramas. If you like the sound of this trip then I cannot stress enough how important it is to branch out and to explore places like Valais for yourself.
I had one of the best summers I can remember whilst exploring Morzine’s outer regions and breaking out from my typical summer routine in that town. I found trails, towns and even entire mountains that I didn’t know existed prior to this project. I discovered a microclimate that surprised me in an area of mountains that will no doubt accommodate many future adventures. I camped out in some stunning settings and I rode my bike against scores of dramatic backdrops which will stay in my mind and dreams forever more. 2012 then is the year for adventure, the time to break free and an opportunity to explore.