THE SWISS VALLEYS

Switzerland is divided into 26 ‘cantons’, or regions. Moving from the shore of Lake Geneva toward the canton of Valais, you are faced with a staggering flat–bottomed valley and the mouth of the lake’s main feed, the Rhône, which makes its way through the farms, towns and villages of the valley floor, a journey which starts from deep within a glacier that sits far away, well–hidden in a series of valleys, in a seemingly never–ending expanse of mountains. Following the Rhône upstream and into the valley, the lift–accessed mountain biking possibilities are immediate.

We had done some research before setting off and were surprised to read that a town, which sits in close proximity to the lake and has previously played host to some classic downhill races, continues to quietly maintain its bike facilities apparently late into the autumn. We had to find out, so as we began our journey towards our meeting point with the Walkers, we took a diversion, a left turn at the UCI’s (Union Cycliste International) headquarters in Aigle, and began to climb up a lush green valley towards our first destination.

SPOT CHECK: LEYSIN
GRADE: INTERMEDIATE

Peaking at 1,263 metres, our steep ascent finally came to an end at Leysin, a town that held some memorable World Cup races back in 2000 and 2001, both events famous for great weather that took a turn for the worse come race day. Although it had snowed on the high peaks during the night, our luck was seemingly in as the sun was out and the clouds were retreating to make way for an awesome panorama across the endless valleys and numerous snow–capped peaks of the area.

Picturesque this view certainly was, and to top it off the lift began to run (with typical Swiss efficiency) at the exact time stated.

A quick call into the ticket office confirmed that there were still downhill tracks and other marked rides available, even in the autumn. In fact, the staff even seemed quite bemused as to why we would think the lift could possibly be closed. “It is always open”, they assured. Silly us. You see, it’s easy to get used to the French way of doing things; close for lunch, long and plentiful holidays and relaxed opening dates. The Swiss keep their numerous lifts open for the majority of the year as they rely on them for access to chalets, farmsteads and villages (the country is 70% mountains after all) and for essential activities such as mountain biking and skiing no less.

The summit of La Berneuse cable–car, at 2,048 metres, presents several items of interest:

(1) An ever–so–slightly imposing, aluminium–shelled visitor centre (with a regular circulation of coach–tripping pensioners looking for a high altitude brew); (2) Extensive views over the distant Lake Geneva and the nearer jagged peaks; (3) Direct access to a weather–beaten looking downhill track.
The permanent track, which on the local grading system is categorized as ‘very difficult’, it has to be said, is not going to win any awards. However, this is a big old mountain and as the track makes its way back towards the town there are plenty of fun features: big jumps, high speed piste sections, absurdly difficult roots and several optional expert sections. It having recently rained before our visit, conditions were nothing short of treacherous – slippery, greasy and slimy. I have a feeling that the surface of the track rarely changes but, once we were accustomed to it, it wasn’t at all bad.

Even if you were to visit for a day or two and only ride the permanent downhill track and its off–shoots, you wouldn’t be disappointed. Basic though it is, there is plenty to keep most riders happy, and the recently added line of jumps, berms and wooden structures at the foot of the mountain shows that the town is still looking to progress. There are 110kms of signposted rides that include the downhill track and several cross country and enduro style rides, as well as a basic skills park in town – nothing revolutionary, but plenty to keep you occupied. I should also note that a funicular railway runs every hour from the valley floor in Aigle up to Leysin, potentially creating several singletrack runs of almighty proportions (a run from La Berneuse to Aigle loses 1633 metres of altitude…).

Parking: Free, available at foot of La Berneuse lift
Lift Cost: 27 CHF/day
Opening Hours: 09:00 – 17:00
Opening Dates: 2 – 5th June and 11th June – 23rd October
Lift Altitude: 1263m – 2048m
Distance from Geneva: 100km’s Web: www.leysin.ch