DON’T MIND THE WALKERS

Following our day out in Leysin, we made a quick assessment of the map and decided to head a little further into the mountains behind the town to a lake that appeared to be situated as far enough away from civilisation as not to disturb anyone with our pikey camp (my car tends to explode its contents outward in all directions at any opportunity). What we came across, aside from some Swiss military practising manoeuvres, was a lake that immediately took a spot at the top of my list of ‘Places to Camp’. The Lac de l’Hongrin may be an artificial lake, a reservoir, but the peaks that jut out from its fringes, the pines that surround it and the scattering of ancient farm buildings, gave it a special feeling of being in a distant land and gave us a sense of insignificance that is rare even in the Alps. We dined à la Mexican: cheap beer and gas stove fajitas.

In the morning we rose with great enthusiasm, the many beers having absolutely no effect on our mood, and proceeded to silently consume bountiful amounts of coffee and Nutella before making our way to meet the Walkers. Ben and Corinne are a couple whose interests are hard to outnumber and impossible to describe. The two have a never–ending passion for everything they do. Their hobbies and employment range from riding bikes down Alpine slopes to building tracks, organising events and collecting sewing machines (the latter is one of Ben’s hobbies by the way).

American ex–pat Ben is well known to the bike industry through his work at Scott Sports and his efforts on the Champéry 2011 World Championships course, his ‘back yard’ track. Swiss born Corinne is lesser known but her enthusiasm is equal. She and Ben spend every moment riding bikes, snowboarding and exploring the mountains that surround their home, and she has played a major part in the organisation and marshalling of every race in Champéry. This week they were on a wind–down from the busiest summer of their lives and were glad to relax in the best manner that they know…by riding bikes. We met at the foot of another of the big mountains in the Rhône valley, having passed several popular off–season riding spots on our way (two that are worth a mention are Bex, open all year with funicular access, and Champéry, which not many know is open every day until mid–October). Our new location put us in the canton of Valais, a region with no less than 45 mountains above 4,000 metres and home to the county’s highest peak, Monte Rosa.

SPOT CHECK: DORÉNAZ
GRADE: INTERMEDIATE/DIFFICULT

We met and kitted–up in the car park of the small gondola lift that runs every day from Dorénaz, a small community which sits at the edge of the flat valley at around 415 metres. This lift was built with the intention of serving the communities of Allesse, at 936 metres, and Champex, at 1089 metres. However the days of the small mountain communities in Switzerland dependant on cable cars are long gone. Now immaculate roads provide easy and convenient motor vehicle access. To boost numbers on their own lift, the community of Dorénaz took an initiative that is becoming almost commonplace in Switzerland; they built a downhill track.
It’s funny to see the many methods that different lift operators decide to be the best to transport a bicycle up a mountain, and Dorénaz is up there in the weird stakes. The lift operator here will be more than happy to take your bike and spin it upside down, ready to attach it to the under–belly of the small cabin, before bungee–tying it in place and wishing you a nice day. Arriving in Champex at the top of the lift ride, the dismount will be less graceful as there is no–one present to help, but it’s hardly a chore (you have just gained 674metres of altitude with no effort, after all). Follow signs for the downhill track which starts 100 metres up the road and gear–up.
There is only one permanent downhill track at Dorénaz, but it’s a treasure. Dropping in, you are up to speed in an instant. The steep drop from the tarmac road ensures this and you need your wits about you. Rocks appear from all directions, trees sail past at high speed and a mixture of loose, dry, rocks and a generous helping of fallen leaves ensure that you will be struggling to find any grip on the steep–sided mountain. This is good, wholesome, chaos. The run is unfortunately broken into several sections by the snaking road that climbs to Champex, but each section of tarmac comes as a welcome rest from the relentless features that are packed onto the track. I like this track, it’s more technical that most resort–based downhills and exciting enough to keep even the most proficient rider on their toes. That is not to say that intermediate riders won’t enjoy themselves though. Approach at lower speed and the track is manageable enough, with optional lines around the majority of features.
We rode for the day before retiring to our respective homes; Ben and Corinne to Champéry, Victor and I to the side of the road. Dorénaz certainly didn’t offer us much in the way of wild camping; a lay–by became our final destination of the day, but for those willing to shell out a few bucks there is plenty of accommodation available in the valley, not least the youth hostel at Sion which is only a 45 minute drive and reasonable at less than 30 Euros per night. If you’re up for some mountain living, there are two refuges with a ‘little’ uphill to reach them, an adventure in itself: The Cabane Scex-Carro (1980 metres, 10CHF per night) and the lonely Demecre Cabane (2361metres, 25CHF per night). Both are easy to find if you simply continue up and up and up from the top lift station (or you can drive the majority of it).

Parking: Free, at foot of Dorénaz’s lift
Lift Cost: 5CHF
Opening Hours: 05:55 – 20:00
Opening Dates: Open all year
Lift Altitude: 415m – 1089m
Distance from Geneva: 134km’s
www.dorenaz.ch or www.dorenazbike.ch