We look at each other with our collective jaws dropped, stricken by what must be one of the single most amazing places we’ve ever had the privilege of visiting. What’s even better, we’ve got our bikes and at least 800 vertical metres of descending waiting for us. A smooth and blazingly fast, ancient, road in the middle of a wide valley surrounded by majestic peaks leads us onto yet another hamlet with old, rugged looking wooden buildings.
We pass right by a couple of families with kids out on a weekend hike, taking a break cooking pancakes on a gas stove – a prime example of the Norwegian outdoor tradition in the flesh. We exchange happy cheers, there are no hard feelings from the hikers like in many other parts of the world, no grumpy faces or complaints about us blasting by on our bikes – simply because the local tradition states respect for both the nature and other people, whether it be by foot or bike. The mountains and trails are for everyone to enjoy.
The trail becomes narrower and drops away in a never–ending series of switchbacks. There’s a myriad of rocks, some super techy parts and hairpin turns mixed with some of the best pieces of singletrack we’ve ever ridden. It’s full–on, flat–out for what seems like an eternity.
And way down there, the fjord glitters in all its glory. It’s a magical moment. I could give anything to make this moment last forever, to stay here and just take it all in. At the same time, well, this masterpiece of a trail just begs to be shredded in one go. After all, now that our initial fury has worn off, we can’t just sit around on our asses. This is Norway, and it doesn’t get much better than this here. Which, after all, means a lot.
INFO GETTING THEREFly to Ålesund (84 kilometres) or Trondheim (376 kilometres). Then rent a car for the remainder of the trip.
WHERE TO STAYWe stayed at the Juvet Landscape Hotel in Valldal, an architectonic masterpiece situated on the brink of a river, overlooking the mountains. Breakfast and dinner’s included.
If you prefer a budget solution and self–catering there’s a wide selections of cabins to rent in the area. Information and booking through the tourism office in Valldal.
WHAT BIKEA modern, slack, all–mountain rig with around 150mm travel front and back is the ideal choice for the Sunnmøre trails.
WHAT TO BRINGDon’t forget to bring a backpack with tools, a snack, water and a rain jacket as most of the riding takes place in remote places, and the coastal weather has a habit of changing rapidly for the worse. There are very few quality bike shops in the area so make sure you bring some extra spares and inner tubes.
FOOD AND DRINKFood in Norway is an expensive affair, avoid eating out as much as possible if you’re on a budget. Stock up in the local grocery stores but be aware that they’re all closed on Sundays.
Make sure not to miss are the beers Slogen from the local brewery Trollbryggeriet. A wide selection of tasty brews with the golden ale Fjord being our absolute favourite.
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