The Way Down

Morning brings blistering cold winds and a dashing of snow on the ground outside the hostel. We are up by 6.30am and the light is slowly making its way over the jagged peaks that surround us. A large coffee is slurped and then we are off, upward once again and we struggle our way to the very top of one of the imposing mountains. Chris is first to reach the solemn crucifix that marks the summit, and he lets out something of a cry, perhaps by this point I should say more of a whimper. This is a singletrack as we’ve never seen before.

I admit having emailed Alex before the trip asking to demonstrate some of the more testing trails on offer in the area, perhaps somewhere he wouldn’t normally take a group of clients and something with a view. Alex certainly came up trumps, and perhaps took me a little too literally when I said we knew what we were doing! I’m not normally scared by heights, but this lonely trail high up above the pastures makes me feel more than a little wheezy, and I skid my way as slowly as possible until I jack–knife and turn to observe Paul and Jamie’s more valiant efforts. They make it look relatively easy and lead the way from here on in.

After quite some effort and a lot of nervous laughter, we make it off the trail and to the half way point of the mountain that is marked by a chocolate waffle and another refreshing Almdudler (look it up).

Continuing Flow

Descending from the half way mark of any mountain in the Zillertal is not going to warrant an easy time or any lack of trail. Following the Almdudler pause, our group of four tuck in behind the man with the plan (Alex), and we start building speed on the approach to a thin ribbon of singletrack that is leading away from the fireroad. Tree roots, rocks and blind crests mark this heavenly trail’s territory, and before we know it 10 minutes of pinning, pinging and pinballing have flown by. Alex knows this one well and he isn’t saving any lines, I try to keep with him as things steepen up and become more akin to something in the Champery valley. There are handle–bar–tight trees aplenty, the floor is awash with pine needles and this train isn’t stopping for anything.

I fly out onto a wide fireroad and shake my hands with relief, the tension is released and Alex is grinning like a man who certainly loves his job. Within a minute Paul comes barrelling down the steep chute and his hardtail bike crunches one last vertebra before he comes to a stop with a radiating buzz, Jamie is right in behind him and shaving tyre treads. Chris rolls in casually with the usual camera bag excuses and we continue downward for another 10 minutes of pleasurable punishment.

Eventually we roll into town and straight to the bar for a hearty meal, we then get well back at the Wellness Centre, eat some more Austrian mountain grub, heave our sorry selves out of our seats and to ‘Scotland Yard’ (basically the most British pub I have ever been to) and then at some point during the night we all make it back to the hotel, weary isn’t the word. What lies ahead? Several thousand metres of singletrack descending, that’s what. And the next day? And the one after that…? More of the same, all on uncharted territory and all under the guidance of a great guide who knows his trails.

Findings

We spent five days patrolling the mighty mountains of the Zillertal Valley, its towns, forests and attractions and I can safely say that I liked everything I saw. Admittedly the area is currently better set up for mountain bikers of the pedalling variety, for that reason a guide is necessary! I can’t emphasize enough how important a guide is; these mountains are big and ferocious, so too the weather system of the area and you will have a lot more fun following Alex than you will trying to make head or tail of a map and every junction that breaks up these epic descents.

Camping is of course possible, at the foot of the valley there is a site called ‘Camping Hell’ – I’m not too sure they researched that one beforehand. The valley floor is wide and rises very gradually, meaning that pedalling between the towns is both easy and in fact a pleasure. Campervans are popular in this area of the world and therefore you won’t have any problems finding a pitch for your wagon up this way.

We stayed for the majority of the week in a ‘Wellness Centre’ – there are hundreds of them in this valley and they are essentially hotels with a swimming pool, sauna and steam room, masseur and some healthy grub on offer. Some of these come in surprisingly cheaply so I’d recommend them highly. Nights in the hills can be spent in one of the dozens of mountain huts that range from basic bothy–style sheds to full–blown hotels. These are normally very high up and in fairly inaccessible locations so plan your approach wisely or be prepared to spend a night on the hill!

Timing

The main reason that I was drawn to the area in the first place was the longer opening dates for summer activities. We visited a month outside the closure of the French resorts and found plenty of people in the streets, hills and bars, and the majority of lifts were running as usual. That isn’t to say that you don’t need to check dates and times though, as they are changeable and subject to weather – essentially the area opens its lifts for bikes as soon as the snow melts, normally mid April and only closes again when there is a regular snowfall – last year they were open as late as October 20th.

Fin

Mega trails, beastly mountains and stunning scenery all equate to making this one of the best all–mountain areas I have ridden. As a word of warning, do not come here expecting groomed trails and chairlifts to each summit – you’re going to have to work for your descents, but when you do you’ll be rewarded.

Finally, do yourself a favour and sort out an itinerary with one of the best guides I’ve met – Alex Ganster at Seasonality in Mayrhofen.

Seasonality   www.seasonality.eu, +436505517605
Zillertal Tourism www.zillertal.at, +43 (0) 5288 87187

A huge thank you to Alex Ganster for his impeccable guiding, Nina Mehrle and Becky Horton at Zillertal Tourism for looking after us so well and to Paul, Jamie and Chris for being good companions.