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2012 Dirt 100: Cane Creek Double Barrel

2012 Dirt 100: Cane Creek Double Barrel

Billy Thackray Billy Thackray

There are barely enough superlatives out there to do this shock justice.

It controls a bike so well that if you stick one on a trail bike you end up with suspension that can out perform many a DH bike. With a huge range of independent adjustments to hand this shock is also one of the best ways to tame a quirky suspension design. Basically it has the ability to flatter a poor design. That’s not to say it works great with every design though because over the years we have had a few bad matches, but on the whole it’s very accommodating.

Don’t think about getting one of these shocks though if you’re not willing to spend time getting it dialled, because it will take time to get the most out of it. We think the rewards are more than worth it. We should also mention the new air version of this shock because from the testing we have done on pre– production versions it’s an exciting development to say the least. Maybe next year you’ll see it here too…

Price: £500.00
Extra 01933 672 170

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  1. Mark Twohey

    Love mine but wish i could find a TI spring for my Orange Alpine……ffs

  2. Commie

    Stoy or CCDB for someone who is lazy about suspension set-up tweaking?

  3. dirt dodger

    @ Commie – go stoy if you are lazy. CCDB requires work, time and you need to understand what you are doing – i took a long time reading and re-reading the manual whilst making changes and doing lots and lots of runs to get it where i wanted it, i now have several settings specific for very different hills – very rewarding and provides shit hot results, BUT if you cannot be arsed losing riding time on days out by making changes and recording what you are doing then my advice as an owner would be to leave it well alone…. fantastic tool but it’s benefits are NOT FREE. flip side is if you can be arsed then you will receive very high levels of controlled damping and grip :-)

  4. DHdyl

    You should never be lazy about setting up your shock because you never know just how good things can be when you set it up right.

    I have the CCDB and it’s …. Oh I just can’t find a word good enough.

  5. mk

    I also have the CCDB on an ss2. Apart from very small tweeks I haven’t changed anything from the stock setting. Does anyone have any tips on setup? It has so much adjustment that I recon it could be easy to mess up in the wrong hands, ie – me!

  6. ahhs wype

    i sold my ccdb shock and bought myself a nice tractor

  7. ronin

    i had it on my transition and it was grip for days on end. sooo gooood. now i’m on a spesh enduro and maybe a ccdb air when compatibility comes around because fox mid stroke is ass.

  8. Antlees

    Where can I get a 550x 2.5 ti spring for my ccdb

  9. dirt dodger

    mk – honestly the best thing to do is follow the manual in the order that it tells you, I think its HS Comp 1st, HS rebound 2nd, then the low end screws. go to a trail that is rough enough and has enough variation in order to notice the changes. Simply wind the screws in the correct order 1 at a time based on the manual below is a little rundown……………….
    HS comp controls how well it takes big hits and G-outs from fast berms etc so if the trail has these type of hits then change the settings and see how it feels (pen and paper to remember how many clicks you wind off or on), if you are bottoming or using loads of travel add some more comp. the worst thing you can do is be scared of making changes, its well worth the effort. HS rebound controls how quickly the HS comp returns from deep in the travel so these 2 really work together, again pen and paper. LS comp is mainly for pedalling bob, cornering etc so you want it set so that when you gas it the bike doesn’t wallow around – the LS rebound works with that to compliment. LS rebound needs to be quick enough to keep the shock active BTW over successive bumps, don’t be fooled by idiots saying it should be slow because its just not so, you may want it a lot quicker than what you think – that’s what i found on mine anyway….move 1 dial, ride and decide, then move on to dial 2, ride and decide – shortly after messing around and hitting different obstacles your brain will click with what is what, then it just becomes natural and you understand what to change for what type of trail, honestly just do it – you can always change back to the factory settings or your own – dont be scared of fucking it up – if you never find out what’s wrong, how can you ever know what’s right. they are only screws – they go both ways, have fun.

  10. mk

    Cheers dirt dodger for the great explanation. Looking forward to giving this a go on Friday and all of bank holiday!

  11. dirt dodger

    no worries – get stuck in and record on paper or phone what you change, it’s worth it.

  12. ronin

    agree with dirt dodger- if you are methodical it is easy. took my time and wrote down my adjusts from the base tune from cane creek. I actually taped my setting to my top tube and then rode. Made adjustments and taped the new settings down. just peeled off and taped old settings as a reference on a board with the date and presto! It is so good that I am severe withdrawals from absolute & composed grip without it on my enduro.

  13. john

    “this shock flatters a bad suspension design”. Probably best putting your 500 towards a new frame then with a good suspension design. Then getting one of these for it rather than trying to polish a turd.

  14. James

    why on earth did they not call it an Ohlins? they would have sold milions cane creek wtf?
    also no amount of clicks will ever over come a spring thats too soft or hard, first thing to do is make sure your shock has the correct spring rate, not more than 30% sag, no less than 20%. springs aren’t affected by heat build up like oil is. best inital set up is everything to the middle of the adjustment range and go from there, measure the settings from all the way in, not all the way out.

  15. James

    oh and cut the black sleeve off the gold shock body as it binds on the spring. Mine has never rubbed on the shock body without it, saves weight and will also save you time looking for the squeak!


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